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Donna Floriella Deoporto Norvona de Sante
Cruxes stood on the deck of the SS Pogona as it finished docking
in Rio de Janeiro. She scanned the waiting crowd searching for a
first glimpse of her husband to be. The year was 1881 and
Floriella is a ‘Letter Bride’, the marriage had been
arranged between the two families via agents, photographs and
letters. Floriella was the fourth daughter of a title rich, but
cash poor Portuguese noble family.
When she had come of age there was no money left to
arrange a good marriage in Portugal and so her father had
decided that a good match could be made to one of the
‘nouvo’ rich families in Brazil. The Pavella family was one
of the richest in Brazil with massive estates, farms and
mansions in Rio de Janeiro.
As the gangplank came
down, Floriella caught sight of her fiancée, stood back from
the crowd beside a grand carriage, Floriella checked herself
over once more, hat on straight, hair tidy, dress clean.
Floriella was wearing her best travelling dress and beneath it
new stays. Her stays were laced an extra inch less than normal
down to 22” and she was feeling very neat. She took as deep as
breath as the stays would allow and walked down the gangplank,
through the crowd, to the carriage. Her fiancée and a
splendidly woman peered over her still intent on the
passengers’ de-embarking. |
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"Hello, are you, Ernesto Pavella ?"
Her fiancée
was about answer when the imposingly dressed, woman with him
said,
" Ah
you must be the maid, where is your mistress ?"
" I
beg your pardon, I am Floriella."
The
woman face blanched, she took out a photograph, looked at it,
looked at Floriella and gasped,
" Bur,
but… you are much slimmer and neater and more
… more ….. she stammered
and fell silent."
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Floriella looked at the photograph
and could see what the woman meant, the photograph had been taken
two years at her second sisters wedding, her sister had made a
good match and no expense had been spared on the wedding, even to
the extent that Floriella as a bridesmaid had been laced down
18” and the bridesmaid dresses had come from Paris. At that
timed Floriella had railed against the lacing as she hardly ever
wore stays, but all her sisters were adamant, that it was for the
good of the family and she had been forced to make the effort. Now
stood on docks with a waist 4” bigger and in a travelling outfit
that although it was her best had, been made by a local
seamstress, she realised that her appearance was not making a good
first impression.
While
she had been thinking, Ernesto and the women had started a
whispered conversation. Floriella waited while they finished and
examined them both in more detail. Ernesto was just as his
photograph, medium height, a moustache and a well-fitted suit, the
woman though was something else. Her dress though mainly black was
of fine silk and highly decorated and looked to Florella’s eyes
to be of the latest fashion. The part of the woman’s dress that
really caught her eye was the waist, it was a perfect stem at
least 5” long and about 17” round emphasised by a stiff mauve
belt and if that was not enough her neck was held in a perfectly
smooth 4” tube with a lace ruffle at the top, hiding the point
where it must be digging in under her chin. The length of her neck
was emphasised even more as the collar rose up to just under her
ears at side and even higher at the back. |
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Ernesto was just as his
photograph, medium height, a moustache Floriella’s gaze was
broken by Ernesto taking her arm and saying,
"Floriella,
my mother wants us to get home as soon as possible, so that you
can rest. "
With
what seemed unseemly haste, Floriella was bundled into the
coach, her bags loaded and they drove off, with curtains pulled
down. At the Pavella mansion, after Floriella had been helped to
change into her best day dress, which she had the maid lace an
inch smaller to 21” thinking to make matters slightly better,
she was shown downstairs to the drawing room where Senora Incita
Pavella and Ernesto were waiting for her.
Senora Incita stood tall and erect by her son, and even without
her elaborate high piled hairstyle was easily taller than
Ernesto. She indicated a chair and Floriella sat down carefully
mindful that she was not used to stays of this tightness and
they dug in painfully as gingerly lowered herself down. Senora
Incita chose a higher chair and without seeming to bend at the
waist at all, lowered herself at the knee’s and perched on the
edge of the chair, and began to speak.
"My
child, I will be plain, you are not quite what we were expecting
and as such I have cancelled the wedding party until we can get
you outfitted in a befitting manner, so that the Pavella name
will not be shamed. To that end, I have arranged that a small wedding ceremony will take place tomorrow and you and
Ernesto will then go to our country estate where you will be
prepared and outfitted in a manner that will reflect the
position of the Pavella family in society. I will announce that
you are unwell after your voyage and when you well enough
prepared, we will have a full ceremony with invited guests on
your return."
At
this, she rose and with small delicate steps, tip tapped across
the tiled floor out of the room. |
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The next
morning was completely taken up by a troop of corsetiere’s,
shoemakers and dressmakers coming to measure her every piece of
her body, and the afternoon by the small wedding ceremony
conducted in the family chapel.
That
night they drove out to the country estate in a curtained
carriage and for the next month a constant stream of tradesmen
arrived to fit her for her new wardrobe, at the same time she
was entered into rigorous corset training wearing stays night
and day which were constantly tightened as she hung for the
first time from a lacing bar. By the end of the month she could
just manage a 17” wasp waist without fainting and was
competent on the 2½” heels. |
| The day of the
wedding dawned and in a beautiful wedding dress, that was a
trial to wear due to the tight skirts, high heels, the pinching
corset and a high tight collar, Floriella walked down the aisle
once more, this time in the Rio De Janeiro Cathedral. As she
walked she noticed the dress of the females in the packed
congregation, she had thought that the waist of her mother in
law, Senora Incita was just an oddity, but to her surprise found
that there were several women present with what looked like even
smaller or longer waists. Floriella was sure one young woman was
even smaller, and longer than Senora Incita, with a large bosom
and rounded hips were joined by an impossible tube not 5”
across and 6” deep. Her narrow neck shot up in a straight tube
at least 6” from top to bottom. Floriella could not take her
eyes off her as she walked past her pew, how could any body
survive with such constriction. |
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Well she thought, I am glad that
I have only to be laced to a waspwaist of 17” that is bad
enough. The ceremony proceeded, and then the reception which was
a torture for Floriella sitting for hours in the tight stays and
she was glad when she could retire to bed and relieve herself of
their tightness.
When
she got upstairs though, Ernesto, Senora Incita and several
maids were waiting in her bedroom, Senora Incita spoke,
"As
you might have gathered at your wedding, that although your
figure is now a lot better, it is not at all good enough
compared to your peers. Ernesto and I have decided that waist
training will continue and become even stricter, so that you
will become a credit to your husband and his family."
At
her signal, the maids came forward and stripped her down her
underlinen, and Floriella rubbed her aching ribs with relief.
One maid took down her elaborate hairstyle and platted her hair
into a ponytail, she was then fitted with a full hood which
fitted her whole head, chin and neck leaving only her face free.
The hood was laced tightly at the back until it felt like her
head was held in vice.
She
was then led over to the lacing bar and this time her wrists
were strapped to the bar and her ankles were strapped to the
floor and the bar was raised until she was stretched to the
utmost. |
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Floriella moaned at the pain, but to no
avail, Senora Incita said,
"Please
be quiet girl this is what many girls in Brazilian high society
have gone through this before you and you will please suffer it
in good grace."
Floriella
gritted her teeth, and was quiet, a second rope was attached to
a loop in the top of the hood and the stretching continued,
stretching Floriella’s neck so that her neck bones cracked. A
maid then stood on a stool and fitted her with a stiff 4” deep
posture collar, the collar was laced tight under her jaw forcing
her head up even further, and the tightness of the collar made
her breathing ragged.
Were
they trying to strangle her ?, she
thought. |
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Floriella
could only see the next stage in the mirror as her head was now
held rigidly upright and she could not move her head even ½”
in any direction. A maid picked what seemed to be half a corset,
by the way it did not flex in her hands and how she held it was
obvious rigidly boned. Floriella saw that it was flared out as
the bottom of a corset but it then straightened for 2” and
finished. This “corset” was fitted over her hips and the
tightening began, the top edge digging deeply into the soft
flesh under her ribs, indenting her waist so deep, that her
bottom rib stood at right angles from the top. The pain on her
ribs and waist grew until she was sure she would faint and then
it stopped. Floriella hung gasping for breath.
The
maid then picked up the other piece which looked like the top
half of a corset again ending a 2” vertical section, this was
fitted around Floriella’s waist and ribs the with the vertical
section overlaying the lower corset half, the lacing began and
Floriella felt it forcing her lower ribs upwards while pushing
the lower half down onto her hips. Senora Incita spoke,
"Lace her until
she is near fainting"
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The
maid continued lacing until the outer belt section
was compressing the inner, Floriella could fell herself fading
and moaned silently as the pressure on her now rigid torso
increased. She would learn later that the lacing was achieved
because the upper corset was slightly smaller at the waist than
the lower corset allowing the lower corset laces at the belt
section to be visible through the gap.
" And
now for the stretcher, spoke
Senora Incita"
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Floriella watched as maid picked
a metal device which that was two half cones with the tops
removed joined by two threaded bolts. The maid approached
Floriella and pushed the device on to her waist with lower half
cone sitting on the corset over her now well defined hips and
the top under her ribs, a similar device was positioned from the
rear. The maids then used four bolts to fasten the two halves
together.
Two
more maids then approached and all four then proceeded to turn
small levers attached to the vertical bolts which then extended
and started to force the two, now complete metal cones away from
each other, the lower half pushing down onto Floriella’s hips
and the upper against her rib cage. The pain was excruitiating. |
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"Continue until the belt is three
inches in depth, said
Senora Incita"
As
the maids slowly turned, the upper corset belt slid up over the
lower belt, Floriella let out a continuous moan and this time
Senora Incita did not chastise her, as she was keeping a close
eye on the depth of the growing stem at Floriella’s waist. At
last Senora Incita signalled a stop and a maid then proceeded to
take up the slack in laces at waist that found due to the
stretching of Floriella’s waist. She then measured it and
announced it was 17” round.
"Good,
this is a good start, now lets get her into bed and finish
off," said Senora
Incita.
When Floriella
was let down from lacing bar she staggered as her weight
increased the compression on her waist. Breathing raggedly
through her constricted windpipe and hard-pressed lungs, two
maids helped her over to the bed. They lowered her down and then
eased her back on the bed. Floriella felt her shoulders meet
something hard. She could not see but she, soon found out, it
was a brace attached to the wooden head board of the bed.
Floriella then felt a pull on the loop on the top of her cap. A
maid had
attached a hook, which was attached to a cable, which passed
through a hole in the headboard and then over a pulley and down
to a weight hanger.
"Twenty
pounds should be enough to start with,
said Senora Incita."
The
maid loaded four five-pound weights onto the hanger and
Floriella felt like her head was being pulled off. Once the maid
had finished another maid tightened the side lacing on the rigid
collar to take up the slackness caused by the stretching.
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"And
now for the foot braces",
said Senora Incita
Another maid
then fitted two wide cuffs to Floriella’s ankles and then
which were attached two rectangular metal frames, the frames
were brought down to the top of her feet and then straps
tightened under her heels forcing here feet into a ballet en-pointe
position. The maid then started to attach another cable to the
ankle cuffs. The cable was passed over another pulley at the
bottom of the bed and thirty pounds of weights added to another
hanger. Florilla felt her back being stretched even more. |
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Senora Incita was now satisfied and she ushered the maids out of
the bedroom and dimming the lights, and left saying
"Sleep
well my dear."
Floriella
tried to sleep but the unrestricting pressure from the fearsome
corset and the strain on her neck and legs made it nearly
impossible, she tried to shuffle about to relieve the pain on
her ribs, hips waist and neck, but she was rigid from breast to
below her hips and neck and shoulders. The only part of her
upper body she could move was her arms. She tried to get to the
laces of her neck brace but the shoulder brace would not let her
get her hands close enough. She reached under corset into her
now deeply indented portion by her backbone, weaving her hands
through the metal of the screw threads. However although she
pulled and tugged at the end of the laces they had been knotted
to tight and the exertion and trying to breath against the
extreme rigidity caused her to faint clean away.
The next
morning, supervised by Senora Incita she was released from the
training corset and the neck brace and quickly dressed in a long
corset with a 2” stem, the corset had a fitted shoulder brace
that dragged her shoulders back until her shoulder blades nearly
met. Wincingly
tight boots with 4” heels and a new dress buttoned tightly to
the stem waist and with a stiff 3” collar completed the
outfit.
When she was
dressed she followed Senora Incita down to her day room, where
she asked her to relent on this harsh regime. Her reply was
sharp and filled with anger.
"Your
letters and photograph deceived our family, after two years
since the photograph; we expected that your figure would have
improved not degenerated to that of a serving wench. Ernesto
agrees with me that he and the Pavella family deserve only the
best and Brazilian fashion requires that you agree to these
measures to achieve a fashionable figure and posture."
The meeting
was over, Floriella
then searched the house for Ernesto walking slowly with a
perfectly erect figure from head to thigh and tip toeing
carefully in the unfamiliar high heels. Stairs were a trial as
the stiff collar, shoulder brace and inflexible corset did not
allow her any view of the floor closer than about twelve feet
away and each step had to be searched for using the pointed toe
of her boots.
At last she
found him and pleaded with him for some relief. Ernesto’s
reply was similar to his mothers adding that he found a stem
waist very attractive and wished Floriella to try her very best
to achieve a long stem waist in the shortest possible period.
That night
Floriella’s bedtime regime was altered slightly, her hands
were covered in padded mittens (to stop her interfering with the
laces and the ankle weights were left off. The reason was that
night Ernesto joined her and seemed to take an inordinate amount
of interest in the stem waist whilst performing his marital
duties.
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